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3 Easy Ways to Fix a Car Horn (Plus 1 Not-So-Easy Way)

July 23, 2020 by UWrenchIt Writer Leave a Comment

Woman leaning out of convertible windowDid you know that vehicles in Georgia must have a working horn? According to Georgia Code Title 40 – Motor Vehicles and Traffic, “Every motor vehicle when operated upon a highway shall be equipped with a horn in good working order and capable of emitting sound audible under normal conditions from a distance of not less than 200 feet…”

If your car horn has honked its last honks, don’t worry—fixing a broken car horn is usually a fairly simple repair. With used auto parts from U Wrench It, a little research, and some elbow grease, you can have your car street legal (and loud) again in no time. 

How to Fix a Broken Car Horn

Find your fuse box and check for a blown fuse.

Get out your owner’s manual (or if you don’t have it, look for a pdf online) and locate the fuse box. In most cars, it’s on the driver-side dashboard. Using the fuse box diagram or manual key, find the fuse for the horn and use fuse pliers to pull it out. You should be able to see through the clear casing whether the fuse is blown; if it is, the wire connecting the prongs of the fuse will be broken. 

If the wire isn’t broken, use a multimeter to test the fuse. If the reading  is “out of limits,” the fuse needs to be replaced. If the reading is a number, your fuse is fine and you’ll need to keep searching for the problem. 

Check the relay and relay switch.

Open the relay box under the hood and find the horn relay. Remove it and replace with another relay of the same type. Test the horn. If it works, you need to replace the horn relay. (Don’t forget to put the good relay back where you found it!)

If you still haven’t solved the mystery of the silent horn, move on to testing the relay switch. For this, you’ll need an assistant. Take the relay out and touch one of your multimeter probes to the relay socket. Touch the other to the negative node of your car battery. While maintaining this circuit, your assistant should try to honk the horn. If your multimeter reads “out of limits,” you need to replace the relay switch. 

Test the car horn.

Check behind the grill of the car for the actual horn. To do this, you’ll need to use your car battery and jumper wires to test the horn. Be careful—you don’t want to get shocked—and follow instructions carefully.   

Examine the horn switch. 

If you’ve tried all of these things and still haven’t found the problem, there could be one more explanation: The horn switch. This step involves removing the steering wheel pad, which is a bit more invasive than the other tasks so far. If not done correctly, it could make your airbag less effective or disable it altogether. Depending on your level of experience, this is one car repair job you may want to leave to the professionals. However, even if you end up taking your car to a shop, remember that you can buy your own used auto parts or request that they buy used parts to save on the cost of the repair.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Don’t Get Duped! How to Tell if a Used Car Has Been in an Accident

July 11, 2020 by UWrenchIt Writer Leave a Comment

Blue convertible with damaged front end

Buying used cars is definitely a smart move if you’re looking for value. According to NerdWallet, a car’s value depreciates by up to 30% just in the first year, with most cars losing 60% or more of their initial value in just 5 years. For DIY mechanics or anyone looking for a bargain, letting someone else take the depreciation hit makes a lot of sense! Unfortunately, not all used cars are equal when it comes to value, and it can be hard to tell a great deal from a lemon if you don’t know what to look for. Luckily for you, we’re here to help. Keep reading to learn the signs that a used car has been in an accident. 

How to Tell if a Used Car Has Been in an Accident

Run a Carfax report.

Isn’t it great to live in the age of the internet? Carfax is a vehicle history reporting service that can give you the inside scoop on the history of most used cars in the U.S. A vehicle history report can tell you if the vehicle has been involved in a (documented) accident, has been recalled by the manufacturer, and even the service history, as well as a list of former owners, among other things. 

Examine the car for irregularities.

While Carfax reports are an important tool for any used car buyer, you should also keep your eyes peeled for other telltale signs that a used car has been in an accident. It’s not unheard of for a seller to attempt to pull one over on buyers by going “underground” for cosmetic/body work. If the car was involved in an accident and the seller either did their own work or got a friend to do it on the down low, you won’t see it on a report … But you might be able to catch it. Look for: 

  • Irregularities in the color, sheen, or texture of the paint, especially around doors, wheel wells, and other places that are challenging for a lazy painter to perfect. If there are multiple colors on the car, that’s a big, waving red flag. 
  • Streaks or hatching indicating that filler has been used under the paint. If you run your hand across the vehicle and feel an area that’s rough or oddly textured, you may have found where Bondo or another body filler has been used to patch up the car.  
  • Misalignments or irregularities in places where a replacement part could have been installed. A vehicle in good condition should have even spaces between areas like door panels, trunk hatches, fenders, bumpers, etc. If you notice a misalignment, like a door that seems slightly off compared to the others, ask the seller what the story is and think twice about purchasing the car. 
  • Brand new/fresh undercoat, which may indicate that work was recently done on the vehicle and new undercoat was applied to cover up the signs. 

Check the fasteners. 

Another way to tell if a used car has been in an accident or had substantial work done is to look at the fasteners and screws with a critical eye. Missing clips or fasteners around the fenders, wheel wells, engine area, or doors can be a big clue that work was done on the vehicle and those items were either lost or weren’t put back on properly after the repairs. 

If you notice rusty, scratched up, or damaged screws or bolts anywhere on the car, that’s another dead giveaway that work has been done on the vehicle. New cars straight from the factory don’t have these blemishes because the factory uses specialized tools to tighten screws and bolts without damaging the slick finish of the final product. 

Good luck finding your next used car! Remember that you can find excellent quality used auto parts here at U-Wrench-It to help you with all of your DIY car projects.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

To Tune Up or Not to Tune Up? A Simple Guide to Engine Maintenance

June 26, 2020 by UWrenchIt Writer Leave a Comment

Man in beanie working on car engine

You’ve probably heard that your car needs regular “tune ups,” but what does that even mean? According to Cars.com,

A car tuneup is an outdated service consisting of replacing parts to bring the ignition and fuel systems up to spec for maximum engine performance and efficiency. A traditional tuneup hasn’t been available or necessary for years.

However, while the phrase “tune up” may be outdated or unnecessary these days, it’s still very important to follow an engine maintenance schedule. Failure to keep up with regular engine maintenance can have serious repercussions for your vehicle, from the relatively minor, like decreased gas mileage, to the seriously major, like serious engine damage! Keep reading to learn more about this important part of any DIY auto mechanic’s routine. 

Engine Maintenance Basics

Start with your owner’s manual. 

The best place to go for information about what your vehicle needs is the owner’s manual. If your used car didn’t come with the manual, or it’s been otherwise lost or damaged, don’t worry! You can hunt down digital files of most owner’s manuals online, or even buy a hard copy off of eBay. 

Typically, the owner’s manual will include a maintenance schedule telling you when to perform each engine maintenance task. For instance, spark plugs usually need to be changed every 100,000 miles, while the engine air filter needs to be replaced every 30,000 miles. You should always defer to the owner’s manual for your own vehicle if in doubt, but here’s a general breakdown of the tasks you need to keep track of:  

Every 3-5k Miles

  • Check engine oil level
  • Change the oil filter
  • Check transmission fluid level
  • Check your fan belt for tears or holes
  • Check your hoses for damage, cracks, etc.
  • Check drive belts for wear and tear. 

Every 12-15k Miles

  • Change engine air filter
  • Flush coolant
  • Check your timing belt
  • Replace drive belts if needed

Every 90,000k Miles

  • Flush or replace fluids
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Replace timing belt

By staying up on these engine maintenance tasks, you can keep your car in great shape for years to come! And remember, if you’re looking for affordable used auto parts, we’ve got you covered here at U Wrench It. Explore our online parts catalog, sign up for our mobile VIP club to hear about our promotions, or come visit us at 4600 Buford Highway in Norcross! 

Our enormous scrap yard has plenty of room to find what you need while maintaining social distance requirements. Give us a call at 770-448-6485 if you have any questions or are looking for a particular part. Want to sell a junk car? Call 404-805-0900 and find out how easy it is to get paid for your clunker!

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Is Your MPG The Best It Can Be?

June 19, 2020 by UWrenchIt Writer Leave a Comment

Smiling woman in yellow shirt putting gas in carIf you’re into DIY car maintenance, you’re probably the type who loves to tinker and get things just right, not to mention saving a bundle of money with smart shopping. While you probably know how to save money on auto repair by buying used auto parts and working on your own car, you might be surprised to know that you’re leaving money on the table when it comes to your gas consumption. 

There are so many factors that affect fuel consumption in cars, so if you’re looking for ways to increase your miles per gallon (mpg), you’re in the right place. Check out some of these gas mileage boosting ideas from Carbibles. 

How to Improve Gas Mileage

Keep your tires properly inflated.

Driving on under-inflated tires doesn’t just drive down your gas mileage and drain your wallet; it’s also dangerous! Underinflated tires are a safety hazard, and over time, failing to keep enough air in your tires will also cause them to wear out faster. Save money and protect yourself and other motorists by checking the air in your tires when you gas up your car. 

Lighten up on that lead foot. 

Here in Atlanta, we have some of the worst traffic in the country, and the “stop-and-go” nature of traffic is terrible for gas mileage. To make matters worse, many drivers gun it when traffic is moving, only to have to slam on the breaks a moment later when it inevitably slows again. Drive smarter and lighten up on the gas pedal to use your fuel more efficiently. 

Replace your gas cap.

Did you know that the seal on your gas cap will fail over time? Most people don’t realize it, but the rubber seal on the gas cap does an important job, keeping excess air out of your engine. When the seal gets old and cracks, your engine ends up drawing more air, which makes it consume more gas just to get the same effect. Shop our used auto parts to find whatever you need for all of your DIY car maintenance projects. 

Sub out your old belt fan for an electric thermatic fan. 

If you have an older car, it probably has a belt-powered fan that increases drag on the car, in turn increasing your gas mileage. Replacing the original fan with a newer system will make even better use of your fuel. 

Gas up in the morning.

According to Carbibles, you can save up to $10 per month with this so-simple-it’s-genius lifehack. The underground gas tanks where fuel is stored at gas stations are affected by the changing temperature throughout the day. When the ground is colder in the morning, the gas particles are closer together, but as the ground heats up through the day, those particles get farther apart. Gas station pumps aren’t measuring the actual density of the fuel, they just deliver a certain volume of gas based on a pre-calculated flow rate. Fuel up in the cool morning hours to get up to 2.5% more actual fuel than you would by fueling in the afternoon on a warm day. 

Filed Under: Uncategorized

DIY Car Maintenance: Getting Rid of Water in Your Headlights

May 27, 2020 by UWrenchIt Writer Leave a Comment

Headlight of red sports carHeadlights are one of the unsung heroes of your car, lighting your way on dark roads at night or shining a path in rainy weather. Unfortunately, sometimes the weather gets the best of you and you end up with water in your headlights! 

If you’ve noticed moisture in your headlights or reduced visibility when your lights are on, don’t wait to deal with it. Water in headlights will not go away on its own, but you can get rid of moisture in headlights with a few tips. Keep reading to learn how from your source for used auto parts in Atlanta—U Wrench It!  

What Causes Water in Headlights?

If your headlight cover is cracked or the seal around it is damaged, it’s clear how water got inside the headlight. However, if you examine the headlight and don’t see any cracks or damage, the moisture is probably just condensation. 

The humid climate here in Atlanta is a major culprit when it comes to water-logged headlights. If you’re driving at night, you turn your lights on, which warms the humid air inside the headlight housing. Once you park and turn off the lights, that air will cool down, and as it does, the moisture will condense inside the headlight. 

Regardless of how it got there, you’re going to want to get that water out of the headlights for maximum visibility and safety on the road! Here’s how. 

How to Get Water Out of Headlights

  • Remove the headlight cover from your car. Your owners manual should have instructions for doing this, but it’s usually pretty simple, requiring just a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the cover in place. 
  • Check the headlight vent and clear any dirt or grime that may be restricting airflow. Most headlight assemblies have vents built in specifically to prevent condensation from forming in the headlight, but this opening can become obstructed over time. 
  • If there’s a lot of condensation or standing water in the headlight, you’ll need to remove the headlight assembly and remove the bulbs, plugs, and any other electrical components from the housing. 
  • Next, use a blowdryer (Yes, the kind you use on your hair!) to heat up the air in the headlight housing and evaporate the condensation. 
  • While you’re at it, prevent moisture from getting in the headlight again by sealing any areas that need it with clear silicone caulk. Remember to let the silicone dry/set completely before you reassemble the headlight!

If your headlight housing or lens is broken, don’t worry—you don’t have to pay exorbitant dealership prices or hunt for a bargain at the auto parts store. Just come to U Wrench It and shop our extensive inventory of used auto parts to find what you need at a great price!

Filed Under: Uncategorized

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